What an idiot

[Mikie]

OK - strip the wires about twice as long as you want the final splice to be - lay the bare wires together pointing in opposite directions so it looks like one wire with a bare spot in the middle - hold the bare section in the middle and twist one bare end around the other wire tightly until you've used the end up - do the same the in the other direction with the remaining stripped end - put the soldering gun/iron on the bare wire, touching the solder to the wire slightly away from the gun/iron until the solder starts to melt on the wire and gets sucked into the length of the splice. DO NOT put the solder on the gun, wait until the wire is hot enough to melt the solder.
Your old wire to the light probably has corrosion in it, if it looks black in/around the wire you need to spread the strands and scrape it with a knife blade or use sandpaper to try to remove as much of the corrosion as possible to get the solder to adhere, otherwise it will bead up and drop off without penetrating the strands.


Oh, another point - if you're using a test light you want to attach the clip to ground then touch the probe to the hot side of the switch, if it lights touch the probe to the other side of the switch and turn the switch on to see if it lights, if so your problem is either in the wiring from the switch to the light or the light itself.

[5th Tuition]

Thanks, as soon as I thought about sliding the shrink tubbing over the wire; I thought "chit" I should have layer the wires horizontal before twisting them

I'm sure that tomorrow (when there is less boat traffic in our creek) I will be able to KEEP the soldering gun under the wires long enough to get them hot and "absorb" the solder.
I was trying to cheat and kept putting the solder on the tip of the gun and expected it to run as a liquid over the bare wire
Even a subtle wave makes me look like I have the shakes and keeps me from getting a good seal.

The light is working with electrical tape wrapped around it But I know it would corrode in a very short time if left in it's present condition.

I just marvel at how a 20 minute job will take me two days to complete. Nothing on the boat is done half-assed; I don't want to start now.

Thanks Mikie for confirming the proper way to do it
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[Chessie27]

If you can recall back to a time when you had to work for a living, I doubt those Marine mechanics were mixing up chemicals so why are you trying to fix stuff on your boat?? Bring it over to Tolchester Marina, they'll get you all fixed up and it may only take them 2 1/2 hours at $95/hr. . Margaret says would be a lot cheaper, but since you started to fix it yourself , there's the idiot surcharge.

[5th Tuition]

I'll get it right tomorrow. I figure if I drink enough fireball, that should counterbalance the wave action and everything will be rock steady

Maybe I should try a real soldering iron instead of my old wood burning kit from when I was 8 years old
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[yachtjim]

You should not solder wiring like that on a boat. It creates a hard spot which becomes a point of failure. Use heat shrink butt connectors. You called us Mon or Tues on that light. You would have had it the next day!

[Mako mike]

You know I am ALWAYS around the corner all us gotta do is call.

[reds]

The right butt connectors and a ratcheting crimp tool is the real answer.

[5th Tuition]

Originally Posted by yachtjim

You should not solder wiring like that on a boat. It creates a hard spot which becomes a point of failure. Use heat shrink butt connectors. You called us Mon or Tues on that light. You would have had it the next day!

Jim,
Thanks for the reply. I called BOE because you installed the light several years ago, so I took the chance that you might have the Red/White in stock. You know us Baby Boomers, we need instant gratification. I was willing to not only pay $150+ for the light, but pay the Bay Bridge toll and gas to pick it up the same day.
Because that wasn't an option, it didn't matter if it took one, two, or three days to arrive.
Thanks for talking me out of soldering the connection I'll hit a west Marine store for the "heat shrink butt connectors". Sounds like a job I can get done in four or five hours
If I worked for you, just look at all the "labor charges" you could get off simple jobs
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[5th Tuition]

Reds;
Thanks for the input. I guess I should have posted asking the "correct" way to connect the wiring in the first place. I should have known that some "old salts" like you would have had the experience to point me in the right direction.

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[5th Tuition]

Ok; so before I "F" up another project, let me ask the board this question.

My Judge has a 13 pound Danforth style anchor with about 15 ft of chain (my guess) running through a Lewmar ProFish 700 windlass. On most days, this combination works just fine.
I have only had a few instances where I wish I had more holding power; but when you want it, you need it.
When we liveline the Bridge, I let my crew fish while I remain near the wheel in case I need to start the motor if the anchor pulls free. Boat wake near the pilings makes me really anxious.
If I am in deeper water (40+ ft); I once again get nervous, even if I have sufficient scope out.

I have measured my anchor and a larger 18 pound of the same style will fit. The shaft can not be much longer or it will not fit in front of the windlass. And, the flukes can not be much longer or they will be touching the fiberglass bow.

I know I can put and extension on the pulpit (or replace the pulpit with a longer one), but I am looking for an easy fix.

My options are first; add more chain. I believe I have 1/4 inch chain running through the windlass. I can buy a connector that APPEARS will run through the windlass without problem. It is the kind that has four "tits" that you pound over to secure it in place (sea fit connecting link Mfg # 4408-40403). I can add another 15 ft of chain with this link to help hold me.

Option 2; I can purchase an 18 pound anchor (Seachoice 18#) and attach it to my existing 15 ft chain.

Option 3; I can add 15 ft chain and 18 pound anchor together.

I realize that placing the connection link between the chains will weaken the strength of the chain, but I don't think that would be a problem. What I'm trying to increase is the ability to "dig in" and "set" more quickly and "hold" more consistently.

What do you think?
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